PAKISTAN · THE KILLER

Nanga Parbat:
The Killer Mountain — Pakistan’s Loneliest Giant

Pakistan has five eight-thousanders. Four stand shoulder to shoulder in the Karakoram. The fifth stands utterly alone, and it has earned the deadliest of nicknames.

Nanga Parbat from Fairy Meadows

At 8,126 metres, Nanga Parbat is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth. But it is not ranked among the highest for its height — it is ranked for its violence. The name itself is Balti for "naked mountain", and before any rope was laid upon it, its early attempts had already claimed so many lives that the world began to call it the Killer Mountain.

A Wall Like Nowhere Else

Rising directly from the Indus valley, Nanga Parbat towers almost 7,000 metres above the river bed — the greatest single vertical rise on the planet. Its southern Rupal Face is the tallest mountain wall in the world, a sheer 4,500 metres of rock and ice. There is no gentle way up Nanga Parbat. There is only a way up, and a way that does not come back.

Hermann Buhl and the Solo Summit

The mountain's most famous chapter was written in 1953 by Austrian climber Hermann Buhl. After days of climbing and against every convention, Buhl reached the summit alone, without oxygen, in a feat so audacious that even his own expedition could not believe it. He descended through the night, walking with a dead man's concentration, and gave the Killer Mountain its first summit. The same Hermann Buhl would later die in the Karakoram, on Chogolisa, in 1957.

Why It Kills

Nanga Parbat's fatality rate hovers around one in five — among the highest of the fourteen eight-thousanders. It is not technically the hardest climb, but its weather is brutal, its faces are enormous, and its avalanches are merciless. It has claimed some of the finest alpinists of every generation.

Seeing It Without Risking It

You do not have to climb it to feel it. The Fairy Meadows trek leads to a meadow of incredible beauty at the foot of the Rupal face, and the view from the meadows up the ice wall is one of the most stirring sights in mountaineering. Plan the great Pakistan treks → or meet all five of Pakistan’s eight-thousanders →