NIRMAL PURJA
The Legend
First to climb all fourteen twice without oxygen. I asked for nothing but safe passage.
Read his story →We who wait below
Ten climbers from six nations, bound on the western ridge of Broad Peak on the morning of Thursday 30 July 2026 β eleven kilometres above the sea at the instant the snow let go.
The Legend
First to climb all fourteen twice without oxygen. I asked for nothing but safe passage.
Read his story →Senior Guide
Twenty-eight eight-thousander summits, ten Everest β a brother in the brotherhood.
His story →Guide Β· 14-summit finisher
Eighteen Everest passages. He carried the dream of the summit, if not his feet.
His story →Guide
From the farmlands below Makalu β raised on the silhouette of an 8,000-metre hope.
His story →Guide
A hand of rope and iron, a voice steady above the clouds.
His story →Guide
He knew the mountain the way a sailor knows a season of the sea.
His story →Guide Β· Son of Hunza
A mathematician who read the mountain in numbers, and stayed beneath it for a love of the lines.
His story →First Omani Woman on Everest
She carried a nation on her shoulders and a whole continent in her boots.
Her story →Client Β· Photographer
An artist who framed the vertical world, gave her last frame to it.
Her story →Client Β· 13 / 14
One peak from a full spine of the Earth β broad, and now sleeping.
His story →The Fall β the chronology of a breath
A heavy snowfall settles over the Karakoram. On Broad Peak the snow is patient, and it does not forget.
One by one the expeditions pack their tents and descend the Baltoro. A few remain, trusting a forecast and a window.
An avalanche cleaves the west ridge, sweeping ten climbers down nearly a vertical mile β from Camp II to Camp I and beyond into the night.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan announces the accident. GPS data shows the sudden, final descent.
Rescuers fight murderous weather to mark three: Yukta, Nadhira, Mallory. The head is turned to the ground.
Elite Exped β the company Purja founded β announces with breaking grief: all ten are taken, to never return.
A ground team reaches Nirmal Purja and three lie beside him. They bring the four down the mountainside, quietly, on their shoulders.
Teams move on foot through the debris field. The mountain will not give back the rest.
In memory
βNothing is impossible.β
For the mountain, for the light, for the twelve who went up and the ten who did not come down. May the dark orography keep them, as it kept the fourteen.