#01 — The Legend

NIRMAL
PURJA

EXPEDITION LEADER · RECORD-HOLDER · NEVER WITHOUT OXYGEN

They called him “Nimsdai” — Big Brother of the fearless. Born 25 July 1983 in Myagdi, Nepal, he joined the British Army’s Gurkhas and then the Special Boat Service before turning his discipline to the mountains. In 2019 he stood on all fourteen of the 8,000-metre peaks in a single season — six months and six days — slashing a record that had stood for nearly eight years. In 2021 he led the first winter ascent of K2. In 2024 he finished the same fourteen again, without a single breath of oxygen. He held eighteen Guinness World Records and fifty-two summits above 8,000. Broad Peak would have been his third passage over 8,000. He asked the mountain for nothing but safe passage.

Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down.
14Peaks · 6 months 6 days
All 14 Twice · 2024
K2First Winter · 2021
48hEverest · Lhotse · Makalu
52Summits Above 8,000
18Guinness Records

Read his full legend in Stories →

The record sheet

2019

Project Possible — all 14 in 189 days

Annapurna on 23 April to Shishapangma on 29 October. The previous record for all fourteen was seven years, ten months.

2019

Everest, Lhotse & Makalu in 48 hours

The first human to stand on the world’s first, fourth and fifth highest summits inside two days.

2019

The five of Pakistan in 23 days

K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and both Gasherbrums — the fastest sweep of the Karakoram ever recorded.

2021

First winter ascent of K2

16 January, with nine other Nepali climbers, after thirty-four years of failure — and the only summit without oxygen.

2024

All 14 again — without a breath of oxygen

Completed on Shishapangma, 4 October, in two years four months — the fastest no-oxygen traverse of the fourteen.

2024

The fourteen twice, with and without oxygen

21 October: the first man in history to summit the 14 peaks and the Seven Summits both ways.